Bosnia basics
The country Bosnia and Herzegovina is relatively young, having its independence day on 1st March 1992 and constitution being signed in December 1995 (Dayton Agreement). Between these two dates Bosnia suffered from the infamous war, one of bloodiest and longest in recent European history.
Today Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH) is a peaceful country, happily welcoming tourists and travellers from all over the world. Its a hilly and mountainous country, with the highest mountain Maglić reaching almost 2400 meters. In the south the mountains lower down towards the sea, the country has an Adriatic coastline of 20 kilometers.
Quoting from Wikipedia: Bosnia and Herzegovina is regionally and internationally renowned for its natural beauty and cultural heritage inherited from six historical civilizations, its cuisine, winter sports, its eclectic and unique music, architecture and its festivals, some of which are the largest and most prominent of their kind in Southeastern Europe.
Places worth visiting:
Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Its multicultural and multiethnic city, known for its nearly four year long siege during the Bosnian war (1992-95) and being the host of The Winter Olympic Games in 1984. Its the home of about 450 000 Sarajevans. According to Wikipedia Lonely Planet has named Sarajevo as the 43rd best city in the world, and in December 2009 listed Sarajevo as one of the top ten cities to visit in 2010. In March 2012, Sarajevo won travel blog Foxnomad’s “Best City to Visit” competition, beating out more than one hundred cities around the entire world. Read more about Sarajevo on Wikitravel and Wikipedia, and from an article in The Guardian and in a travel blog.
Mostar
General distances to Sarajevo (within Europe)
London 2000 km
Paris 1800 km
Amsterdam 1700 km
Berlin 1400 km
Vienna 780 km
Zagreb 400 km
Budapest 550 km
Istanbul 1160 km
Currency is Bosnian Convertible Marka, generally shown as KM, officially BAM
The country has three official languages: Bosnian, Croatian and Serbian. English is spoken generally in Sarajevo and other cities.
Three largest religious groups in Bosnia and Herzegovina are (in this order) Muslims, Serbian Orthodox, and Roman Catholics. There is a large Jewish minority as well.
Fly to and fro:
The Story of Vukov Konak
Vukov Konak, whose name translates to “Wolf’s Inn,” is far more than a simple restaurant. It is a living piece of Bosnian heritage, carefully woven into the forested slopes of Trebević Mountain, just a twenty-minute drive from the centre of Sarajevo. The konak was originally conceived in the late 1970s as a gathering place for mountaineers and nature lovers who roamed the Olympic-eligible peaks. After the Bosnian War, which heavily scarred these mountainsides, the property was lovingly restored by a Sarajevan family determined to preserve the traditions of Bosnian gostoljublje (hospitality). Today, it stands as a symbol of resilience and a keeper of stories whispered under its heavy wooden beams.
The building itself mirrors the classic planinarski konak (mountain lodge) style, but with deeper Ottoman-era influences. Thick stone walls, hand-carved wooden pillars, and a generous clay-tiled roof make it blend seamlessly with the surrounding pine forest. Inside, open fireplaces crackle through all but the warmest summer days, and the walls are adorned with vintage photographs of old Sarajevo, wolf skins, and antique farming tools. The atmosphere is deliberately slow-paced, inviting visitors to sit, breathe the mountain air, and feel the timeless rhythm of Bosnian village life.
A Feast for the Senses
Dining at Vukov Konak is a journey into the heart of Bosnian cuisine, prepared according to recipes passed down through generations. The menu celebrates slow-cooked meats, fresh dairy, and breads crafted with the kind of patience that urban life rarely allows. Signature dishes include lamb roasted under a sač – a heavy metal bell covered with hot embers – allowing the meat to steam in its own juices for hours. Equally revered is the veal ispod sača, a dish so tender it falls apart at the mere touch of a fork. Vegetarians are not forgotten: the kitchen serves hearty grah (bean soup), sogan-dolma (stuffed onions), and creamy sirnica cheese pie.
The experience is not complete without sampling the drink menu. Rakija, a powerful fruit brandy, is offered in several varieties – plum, quince, and apple – all homemade and served in tiny crystal glasses. Bosnian coffee, prepared in the traditional džezva copper pot, arrives on a silver tray with a cube of rahat lokum (Turkish delight), encouraging the long, contemplative conversation that locals call ćejf. For those seeking a soft accompaniment to the meal, elderflower juice and mountain herbal teas are picked from nearby clearings and dried on-site.
The Magic of the Terrace
If the heart of Vukov Konak is its kitchen, its soul is undoubtedly the open-air terrace. Perched on the edge of the slope, it offers an unobstructed panorama of Sarajevo below and the dark ridge of Mount Igman across the valley. On clear days, the Dinaric Alps roll away in waves, and at sunset the city lights begin to flicker like a second starry sky. The sight alone is worth the winding mountain road, and many visitors choose to arrive an hour before their reservation simply to sit with a glass of chilled white wine and watch the light change over the basin.
The terrace is built from stone and local spruce, with a roof supported by carved pillars that cast dancing shadows in the afternoon. Rustic wooden tables, each unique, are spaced generously apart, ensuring that even when the inn is busy, a sense of privacy remains. In spring, pots of wildflowers line the balustrade; in winter, thick wool blankets are draped over every chair and braziers are lit to keep guests warm. Children are welcomed with a small playground tucked away near the forest’s edge, while cats – unofficial guardians of the konak – nap lazily on the sun-warmed flagstones.
Exploring Trebević and Beyond
Vukov Konak is not only a destination in itself but an ideal starting point for exploring the Trebević mountain range. Trebević, one of the four Olympic mountains, is crisscrossed with hiking and biking trails that suit all levels of fitness. From the konak, a well-marked path leads to the abandoned bobsled track from the 1984 Winter Olympics, now a haunting, graffiti-covered monument to another era. The track, about an hour’s walk away, has become a peculiar tourist attraction where nature and street art have reclaimed the concrete.
For more adventurous visitors, a longer hike can reach the summit of Trebević (1629 meters) in around two hours, offering views that stretch as far as Montenegro on exceptionally clear days. In the winter months, small ski runs operate on the mountain’s northern slopes, and the konak serves as a warming hut for skiers. Whether you arrive for a full day of outdoor activity or simply for a meal, the inn’s staff are always ready to offer advice on trail conditions and hidden viewpoints, deepening the connection between the traveller and this wild, resilient landscape.
